Minnesota Focus Owners Club

ch435 wrote:Ok, so now I've got people saying that if I go to the 2.3, I'd need a new computer and wiring harnesses? Huh? I would think a tune would be all I need to handle the change. Anyone know this for sure? I am wondering what really is involved to go from 2.0 to 2.3 now.

Ignore everyone and call Focus Sport and see what they say about it.

There are differences but I don't see why the 2.0 PCM wouldn't run a 2.3, unless there are a lot of differences I'm not aware of.

Ya, I do have a thread in the focus sport area on fj. Just waiting to see what they say.

ch435 wrote:Ya, I do have a thread in the focus sport area on fj. Just waiting to see what they say.

I'd stand by whatever they say...they know their shit when it comes to teh Duratec.

o2designs wrote: I'd stand by whatever they say...they know their shit when it comes to teh Duratec.

And Randy even knows how to spell the word "The"

Randy just posted asking me to call him next week. He will sort it all out for me. yay.

take 2.0 out and put 2.3 in
its that easy, everything is the same but the internals are bigger.

KRYPTO wrote:take 2.0 out and put 2.3 in
its that easy, everything is the same but the internals are bigger.

same bore, longer stroke, different valves( i could be wrong on the valves) honest opinnion, go with a 2.0 boosted but put forged rods and pistons in. set it up for around 15-18 psi max. get a tune to allow either meth or race fuel and a daily tune. build the valve train to handle more than your expected output, no build the whole drivetrain this way and keep the tune a little under,or you can do what everbody else does and build a dyno queen and have all sorts of problems.

screw the 2.0 or 2.3 engine, put a 351 one in and convert to rear wheel, you will untouchable then

The 2.3 is looking worse and worse as an option. Now a head I thought was 400 is 483, and that does not include cams. Plus a core of $150, and selling my good 2.0 head for much over that could be tough. Where as I could by a 2.0 for $500 and put my good head, cams and intake on that.

A replacement 2.0 would'nt be bad either. Just build the whole motor up from bottom end up...it'll still be very quick and bullet proof.

o2designs wrote:A replacement 2.0 would'nt be bad either. Just build the whole motor up from bottom end up...it'll still be very quick and bullet proof.

thats the key that almost all over look,pappy finaly caught on,you cant have fun driving it if it dont drive.I see soo many times people throw all these parts on and it only makes it about a month before it granades, now they have to spend three time the amount of money and time doing it the right way.id go with a solid 2.0, the thing is to look at what you have and figure out what you need then research on what you want, then set your goal and shoot for 20-30% below that.

ch435 wrote:The 2.3 is looking worse and worse as an option. Now a head I thought was 400 is 483, and that does not include cams. Plus a core of $150, and selling my good 2.0 head for much over that could be tough. Where as I could by a 2.0 for $500 and put my good head, cams and intake on that.

If your going to build it, just use a 2.0. The shorter the stroke, the less stress there is on everything.

CleanZX3 wrote:

ch435 wrote:The 2.3 is looking worse and worse as an option. Now a head I thought was 400 is 483, and that does not include cams. Plus a core of $150, and selling my good 2.0 head for much over that could be tough. Where as I could by a 2.0 for $500 and put my good head, cams and intake on that.

If your going to build it, just use a 2.0. The shorter the stroke, the less stress there is on everything.

not always true. short stroke engines love to rev, matter of fact they make up for the loss of tourqes this way, the more you spin the greater the enertia, the more the direction changes, and more stress, add boost and you increse the cyl pressure and add more torsion to the mix. cast dont like to bend or compress or strech, this is why forged is better. when building a perf engine it needs to be able to handle the stresses of the suck,squish,bang. the 2.o is a eco motor and was not ment to sing at 7 grand all day. rods,pistons,rings,valve springs,cams all need attention. the trick is to start with a rock solid foundation and add from there.

CleanZX3 wrote:If your going to build it, just use a 2.0. The shorter the stroke, the less stress there is on everything.

We're are not talking about building a 4.0 out of a 2.0 the small difference in stroke is not going to create anything close to matter at all.

stoked motors create more torque then non stroked