Minnesota Focus Owners Club

O.K. so I installed the UDP tonight and for the life of me I can't get the freakin crank bolt torqued to the required 85 lb.ft. anyone know the trick to this?

I did use blue locktite and I hit it with my impact for now but I didn't want to hit it too hard because I can visualize the thread in the crank stipping out.

I will have to get back under there because I noticed the idler pulley had an odd wear pattern and upon further inspection appears to have a failing bearing.

Maybe my brain is just fried but I can't think of any way to lock the crank in place so I can torque the bolt.

I think I just relied on the engines compression and or the car being in gear and the ebrake being on

I'll try it with the e-brake, I tried it with my son sitting in the car standing on the pedal but there must be to much mechanical advantage with the torque wrench because he couldn't hold it.

Plus I have the wonderful spring loaded flywheel to deal with.

wheh i did mine i did it the backyard mechanic way, not the right way, had something to do with a screwdriver stuck between the cam gear and the valve cover... i don't really recommend it though, since you could mess shit up pretty bad i'm sure.

Um, Yeah, I think I'll avoid the cam gear thing.

I may have to get the timing tool kit for the crank locking pin, Good thing I have a hook up for parts.

When I did mine, I used a large screw driver, by putting it across bolts on the UDP to create pressure, to be able to hold it in place, while I tightened.

If that makes any sense.

Steve,
you mean that when you are "cranking" on the bolt, the car is actually moving?

How about simply parking it up against some im-movable object...say like a wall?

Tim

19-Delta wrote:Steve,
you mean that when you are "cranking" on the bolt, the car is actually moving?

How about simply parking it up against some im-movable object...say like a wall?

Tim

The car moving is only part of the problem, Since mine is an SVT I have a dual mass flywheel which is a two piece spring loaded flywheel.

So when I do get the car to stay still I'm still putting most of the torque into the flywheel spring and theres not enough range of motion to get past the spring action.

Grrrrrrrrrrr, So before I left this morning I hit it again a little harder with the impact gun. I'll check it out again when I replace the idler and tensioner.

One more question, Anyone else running a Goodyear Gatorback serp belt? I don't know if it's the bad idler bearing or the belt but my car sounds like it's got a blower whistling away under there now. I kind of like it

FORDSVTPARTS wrote:

19-Delta wrote:Steve,
you mean that when you are "cranking" on the bolt, the car is actually moving?

How about simply parking it up against some im-movable object...say like a wall?

Tim

The car moving is only part of the problem, Since mine is an SVT I have a dual mass flywheel which is a two piece spring loaded flywheel.

So when I do get the car to stay still I'm still putting most of the torque into the flywheel spring and theres not enough range of motion to get past the spring action.

Grrrrrrrrrrr, So before I left this morning I hit it again a little harder with the impact gun. I'll check it out again when I replace the idler and tensioner.

One more question, Anyone else running a Goodyear Gatorback serp belt? I don't know if it's the bad idler bearing or the belt but my car sounds like it's got a blower whistling away under there now. I kind of like it

i think its something about the gatorback belt! thats just the way the sound hehe

try putting a 3/8s bolt in the crank lock, you know the one in the ford tool for doing the cams, it has the cam bar and the crank lock to keep the engine from rotating!!!!, it is down on the right side of the block, if you are looking at the pully. put the motor at TDC and insert bolt into corrisponding hole and prestto motor is lock, wont turn, its desinged this way, for this reasone......man! kids now a days!!!!!

focinite wrote:try putting a 3/8s bolt in the crank lock, you know the one in the ford tool for doing the cams, it has the cam bar and the crank lock to keep the engine from rotating!!!!, it is down on the right side of the block, if you are looking at the pully. put the motor at TDC and insert bolt into corrisponding hole and prestto motor is lock, wont turn, its desinged this way, for this reasone......man! kids now a days!!!!!

I thought it was a metric bolt?


And I am sure Steve would of bought the tool already if he had expected this.

zurno wrote:

focinite wrote:try putting a 3/8s bolt in the crank lock, you know the one in the ford tool for doing the cams, it has the cam bar and the crank lock to keep the engine from rotating!!!!, it is down on the right side of the block, if you are looking at the pully. put the motor at TDC and insert bolt into corrisponding hole and prestto motor is lock, wont turn, its desinged this way, for this reasone......man! kids now a days!!!!!

I thought it was a metric bolt?


And I am sure Steve would of bought the tool already if he had expected this.

alls it has to do is fit in the hole to stop the crank, a broke off screw driver would work... and hes a parts guy, smart yes, knows all , no...just trying to help.

focinite wrote:

zurno wrote:

focinite wrote:try putting a 3/8s bolt in the crank lock, you know the one in the ford tool for doing the cams, it has the cam bar and the crank lock to keep the engine from rotating!!!!, it is down on the right side of the block, if you are looking at the pully. put the motor at TDC and insert bolt into corrisponding hole and prestto motor is lock, wont turn, its desinged this way, for this reasone......man! kids now a days!!!!!

I thought it was a metric bolt?


And I am sure Steve would of bought the tool already if he had expected this.

alls it has to do is fit in the hole to stop the crank, a broke off screw driver would work... and hes a parts guy, smart yes, knows all , no...just trying to help.

If you didn't already know, he used to be a mechanic by trade (atleast thats what I got out of it)

And I thought you were threading the 3/8 in there, which the hole is a metric thread. My Haynes manual told us how to make one ourself. Possibly a M8 bolt? Or M10? I'm not sure, but I know it was metric and we couldn't find one the right length of thread, so it got some material added to the end.



Nick

focinite wrote:

zurno wrote:

focinite wrote:try putting a 3/8s bolt in the crank lock, you know the one in the ford tool for doing the cams, it has the cam bar and the crank lock to keep the engine from rotating!!!!, it is down on the right side of the block, if you are looking at the pully. put the motor at TDC and insert bolt into corrisponding hole and prestto motor is lock, wont turn, its desinged this way, for this reasone......man! kids now a days!!!!!

I thought it was a metric bolt?


And I am sure Steve would of bought the tool already if he had expected this.

alls it has to do is fit in the hole to stop the crank, a broke off screw driver would work... and hes a parts guy, smart yes, knows all , no...just trying to help.

I was a mechanic for about 8 years, I just don't like having to do stuff I don't want to do on a car.

If you hadn't noticed I did mention picking up the timing tool for this purpose, I just hadn't thought of it before I installed the UDP.

It's not going anywhere, The impact took care of that. I replaced the idler and tensioner last night as well.

Don't just assume a parts guys can't work on cars, I've built my own motors and about the only thing I have not done on a car is A/C work. It's just a matter of what I feel like doing.

Steve, you ARE my hero