Minnesota Focus Owners Club

Has anyone here done this swap on the 05-07 generation body? Besides the kit and fluid what else as far as special tools are needed or nice to have to make the job easier or just without having to make multiple runs to the local auto store during the job? Also does the kit come with new bake lines since I will be doing the job I want to change out to stainless braided front and rear.

Thanks
Brian

its pretty basic tools

flare nut wrenches for the lines, but those are not really needed its just the right way to do it.

PM me if you want i would be willing to help install.

i know alot of people say you dont need the master but if you have drums and are switching to disks the valving is not the same.


in a wheel cyl you have a small pistion wich is good cus shoes are a lever.

in a caliper you have a large piston and no lever.

now if you know any thing about hydrodynamics, youll know that in a hydraulic system, a pressure constant and a surface area change will equal a different out put.
IE..say you have 5 psi of pressure and a 1/2 inch piston it will equal X
now if you change only the piston size to say 2 1/2 inches now the out put will triple( or some thing like that, its not accurate numbers)

sooo the moral is you need a master that is set up for rear disk.

^^^you should come and help !!.... im willing to help whenever you are down to do this...

here some help for you Brian, so you get an idea of the differences of both .

focinite wrote:i know alot of people say you dont need the master but if you have drums and are switching to disks the valving is not the same.


in a wheel cyl you have a small pistion wich is good cus shoes are a lever.

in a caliper you have a large piston and no lever.

now if you know any thing about hydrodynamics, youll know that in a hydraulic system, a pressure constant and a surface area change will equal a different out put.
IE..say you have 5 psi of pressure and a 1/2 inch piston it will equal X
now if you change only the piston size to say 2 1/2 inches now the out put will triple( or some thing like that, its not accurate numbers)

sooo the moral is you need a master that is set up for rear disk.

Actually there is no disc/drum master cylinder.

The only differences are with or without ABS and Advancetrac.

thanks for the information guy's!
Brian

FORDSVTPARTS wrote:

focinite wrote:i know alot of people say you dont need the master but if you have drums and are switching to disks the valving is not the same.


in a wheel cyl you have a small pistion wich is good cus shoes are a lever.

in a caliper you have a large piston and no lever.

now if you know any thing about hydrodynamics, youll know that in a hydraulic system, a pressure constant and a surface area change will equal a different out put.
IE..say you have 5 psi of pressure and a 1/2 inch piston it will equal X
now if you change only the piston size to say 2 1/2 inches now the out put will triple( or some thing like that, its not accurate numbers)

sooo the moral is you need a master that is set up for rear disk.

Actually there is no disc/drum master cylinder.

The only differences are with or without ABS and Advancetrac.

correct. how many rear disk focies you see with out abs? the svt master is way different than my standard master.

focinite wrote: correct. how many rear disk focies you see with out abs? the svt master is way different than my standard master.

Lot's actually since I sell so many of these kits, ask Pappy how they work he has a non-ABS car with an SVT swap on it.

I'm just saying it's not an absolute need to change it out, I'm actually not aware of a single person who's done the swap that changed the master cylinder.

you know as well as ido that a lot of things that are done are not always done right. it can be done and it will work, but in a actual hard driving/braking situation you will find out very quickly when the inside rear wheel keeps locking up. there was an artical in one of my sport compact mags about a focus class car with the svt convertion and the main complaint was the rears where to easy to lock up under minamal braking. i dug alittle deeper on line about this spec class race and found all sorts of stuff about the rear brakes and the use of aux perpotioning valves to fix it. now if the proper master is used then you woudnt have to dick with the extra crap. for road use youll be fine till you brake hard on a entrace ramp and find yer self pointing the wrong way. with out the propper master you will never get the full potential fron the convertion, you are baisicly putting bigger brakes on for looks. its just my oppion, you all do what you do, i aint judgin.