Overheating when AC is on
You running any type of UDP? I run one and don't have any cooling issues, but it does underdrive the water pump, some people have experienced overheating with one rarely.
-Nick
-Nick
Malibu Blue 2001 Focus Sedan SE
Ford racing plug wires, Volant CAI, Focus Central UDP. FC 65mm TB, MBRP cat-back w/ Focus Sport Stealth Resonator, SVT Header/Cat/Flexpipe, SVT Suspension.
Ford racing plug wires, Volant CAI, Focus Central UDP. FC 65mm TB, MBRP cat-back w/ Focus Sport Stealth Resonator, SVT Header/Cat/Flexpipe, SVT Suspension.
I am running SPAL single fan. It's wired up to always on all the time, so I don't think that's the problem. Coolant should have also been mixed 50/50 with water.
I do have a UDP. I also have a turbo. If what focinite said is possible, I guess that UDP is the problem and with turbo the engine should run hotter than without. That UDP may have underdrive the water pump
I do have a UDP. I also have a turbo. If what focinite said is possible, I guess that UDP is the problem and with turbo the engine should run hotter than without. That UDP may have underdrive the water pump
yeah your not supposed to run a UDP with an FI setup from what I've heard, only thing I think that does that is the JRSC BBK, but thats just a diff pulley for the actual Super charger.
-Nick
-Nick
Malibu Blue 2001 Focus Sedan SE
Ford racing plug wires, Volant CAI, Focus Central UDP. FC 65mm TB, MBRP cat-back w/ Focus Sport Stealth Resonator, SVT Header/Cat/Flexpipe, SVT Suspension.
Ford racing plug wires, Volant CAI, Focus Central UDP. FC 65mm TB, MBRP cat-back w/ Focus Sport Stealth Resonator, SVT Header/Cat/Flexpipe, SVT Suspension.
focinite wrote: check to see if both fans work, it could be a relay. also check the compressor if it is locking up it taxes the motor, makes the belt sqweel
Where are them relays my bay gets really hot and those fans never turn on, they used to, but not no more
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focinite
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i think down on the drivers side fender skirt. i thinksc0tty8 wrote:focinite wrote:check to see if both fans work, it could be a relay. also check the compressor if it is locking up it taxes the motor, makes the belt sqweel
Where are them relays my bay gets really hot and those fans never turn on, they used to, but not no more
wink wink.....bitches-
focinite
- Master of Phonemic orthography
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well how big is the single fan? its turboed? the condenser makes heat to , its job is to take the heat from the vaporized 134a so it goes back to a liquid, then that heat goes into the radiator and if you have a udp the water pump is not working like it should. my geuss is that the single fan is not moving the air that is needed. i would go with a canted twin fan with a 190 thermostat and a 180-200 fan switch and run staight water in the summer with a glychol additive like water wetter or purple ice , water is more effective at cooling than a fitty/fitty mix of water and coolant. is the radiator all aluminim? check you resivor cap. if it aint sealing the pressure in the coolant gets hot and fast. you need the system to hold pressure to keep the boiling point higher.andr182 wrote: I am running SPAL single fan. It's wired up to always on all the time, so I don't think that's the problem. Coolant should have also been mixed 50/50 with water.
I do have a UDP. I also have a turbo. If what focinite said is possible, I guess that UDP is the problem and with turbo the engine should run hotter than without. That UDP may have underdrive the water pump
wink wink.....bitcheshave you played with your thermostat? Maybe you have a bum one
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IMINHELL
Before we get to far, what temp's are you running? are you going off the factory gauge?
If your going off the factory gauge your not going to get a good indication of what the actual temp is. The factory gauge and sendor are not linear (meaning that for every temp there is a specific resistance sent to the gauge). Your best bet (if you still have stock) is to replace it with something of better quality, I like Autometers products personally.
It could also be that the fins are not getting enough air through them, blocked by bugs and debris. Use an air hose and blow backwards through the core (from engine bay out). I am not farmiliar with how the fluidyne fits but there should be somewhat of an air gap between the condensor and your radiator, IIRC about an inch is standard. If they fit to close try to mount the radiator back further.
Turbo'd cars generally run warmer than n/a cars. Mostly due to the extra heat, both intake and exhaust. To cure the intake heat most use an intercooler (which I am guessing you have). There are a few ways to cool the exhaust - back off the timing, add more fuel, bigger exhaust (ports, housing, manifold) and polish the exhaust side (a reflective surface rejects alot of heat).
I don't know what you all have done or have tried so I will leave it at this for not.
John
If your going off the factory gauge your not going to get a good indication of what the actual temp is. The factory gauge and sendor are not linear (meaning that for every temp there is a specific resistance sent to the gauge). Your best bet (if you still have stock) is to replace it with something of better quality, I like Autometers products personally.
It could also be that the fins are not getting enough air through them, blocked by bugs and debris. Use an air hose and blow backwards through the core (from engine bay out). I am not farmiliar with how the fluidyne fits but there should be somewhat of an air gap between the condensor and your radiator, IIRC about an inch is standard. If they fit to close try to mount the radiator back further.
Turbo'd cars generally run warmer than n/a cars. Mostly due to the extra heat, both intake and exhaust. To cure the intake heat most use an intercooler (which I am guessing you have). There are a few ways to cool the exhaust - back off the timing, add more fuel, bigger exhaust (ports, housing, manifold) and polish the exhaust side (a reflective surface rejects alot of heat).
I don't know what you all have done or have tried so I will leave it at this for not.
John
