Shouldnt I gain performance with a performance upgrade?

KRYPTO · Mon Apr 14, 2008 5:06 pm

So I put the stage3 with Alum flywheel in, now I loose power around 5600-6400 rpm then get it back at 6500 rpm
Shouldnt I gain performance with a performance upgrade? Any thoughts on the cause.

grocerygetter · Mon Apr 14, 2008 5:57 pm

KRYPTO wrote:So I put the stage3 with Alum flywheel in, now I loose power around 5600-6400 rpm then get it back at 6500 rpm
Shouldnt I gain performance with a performance upgrade? Any thoughts on the cause.

I don't think you should lose power do to the clutch. Once the clutch and flywheel mesh they shouldn't have any impact on the engines ability to rev other than overcoming the inertial forces required to spin faster which it sounds like should be less due to the upgraded flywheel. I would look elsewhere, if you have access to diagnostic equipment that can monitor and record whats happening I would have a look at the ignition side of the equation either a sensor or control issue causing the car to stumble. I would also check all connectors that you were required to disconnect in order to get the clutch out it could be as simple as a harmonic vibration at that rpm range shaking a loose or corroded connection just enough to cause the stumble.

B

KRYPTO · Mon Apr 14, 2008 7:35 pm

Looked it over/ everything is connected, no leaks, fluids full, plugs look good. took it for quick spin. Seems to cut out/hessitate at 5K and up. Wont even get past 6600rpms

I'm running stock coil and wires, but ran great be for the clutch went out. Think I should get new ones?

ZX2_racer · Mon Apr 14, 2008 8:13 pm

weird. The first thought that came to mind with me also was a loose connection or corroded wire, but if that a no im at a loss. I dunno mang

grocerygetter · Mon Apr 14, 2008 8:37 pm

KRYPTO wrote:Looked it over/ everything is connected, no leaks, fluids full, plugs look good. took it for quick spin. Seems to cut out/hessitate at 5K and up. Wont even get past 6600rpms

I'm running stock coil and wires, but ran great be for the clutch went out. Think I should get new ones?

I wouldn't at this time I'm guessing you are not getting a CEL? With the new information that its hesitating and cutting out above 5k and won't get past the 6600 it could also be starving for fuel or have a air/fuel mixture issue. Thats different then having a "dead spot" between a fairly narrow band of RPM. Generally with electrical circuits either they work or they don't but since we are dealing with a complete system where components can partially fail such as coils on injectors that short or increase in resistance and start to starve a cylinder for fuel or a sensor that can no longer output the correct voltage or allow the correct current to flow through it you may be getting bad information sent to the computer. If its getting bad information and trying to correct whatever issue it thinks its seeing it may or may not cause a CEL especially if it is purely mechanical and the computer has no way of monitoring for the fault. When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Is there an issue with the fuel regulator? Is the fuel pump functioning properly, delivering the proper volume and pressure. Do you have any air leaks? I am more inclined to spend the money on a diagnostic then start throwing money at parts you may not need you should be able to find a fairly inexpensive ($30-$60) routine scan at any of the major auto repair places. If nothing else the scan will rule out a lot of possibilities even if it does not find the issue causing the hesitation. Hopefully some of the more experienced people will chime in and add to this info. As far as the 6600 rpm since you are mentioning not being able to get there I take it that it is not hitting the rev limit for the SVT. There may be someone on the list with a scan tool that can give you a bargain.

Brian

KRYPTO · Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:11 pm

its not throwing any dash lights, I have never changed the fuel filter and dont know how I would go about checking the pressure. Tomorrow I'll check the wires with a multi meter.
Is the filter hard to do? And whats CEL????

soul_hammer · Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:48 pm

KRYPTO wrote:its not throwing any dash lights, I have never changed the fuel filter and dont know how I would go about checking the pressure. Tomorrow I'll check the wires with a multi meter.
Is the filter hard to do? And whats CEL????

filter is easy but you need to get a special tool to do it and the CEL is the check engine light.

KRYPTO · Tue Apr 15, 2008 2:20 pm

how would you check fuel pressure?

grocerygetter · Tue Apr 15, 2008 7:52 pm

KRYPTO wrote:how would you check fuel pressure?

Generally with a pressure gauge and usually at the fuel rail. Not sure about the SVT but there should be a plug or valve that would allow access to the fuel system. you can check for pressure as well as perform a leak down test to see if/how fast, the pressure falls after turning the pump off. If you end up taking it in for a diagnostic be careful that they don't talk you into parts and/or service that you don't need or don't need them to do if you can and want to do it yourself.

Brian

Redlineracer12 · Tue Apr 15, 2008 8:09 pm

I'd start with a fuel filter, it's a good idea to replace them every other year or every 20k miles or so.

Even if that's not your problem it's a routine maintenance item.

I know my dad's car doesn't have a schrader valve on the fuel rail but that's an SPI so I'm not sure what the SVT has. If you don't have a fuel pressure valve you can put a gauge in place of the fuel filter to check the pressure the pump is putting out.

focinite · Tue Apr 15, 2008 9:27 pm

stop what you are doing!!!!!!!!!! first check to see if your mani controller isnt broke at the rocker switch. if the cable is still attached rev up to around 5grand and see if the actuator is moving it. now to your clutch. you dropped about eleven pounds out of it, that is also 11 pounds of enertia, when your mani switches from long to short you lose alot of torque, the heavy fly wheel helped hide this because it stores energy. it shouldnt be as noticable as you say so id look to the imrc first. CFM sells a aluminum version of the mani rocker, the best 40 bucks you can spend.

KRYPTO · Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:44 am

the clips not broken and it opens fine. It seems to be getting worse

I'm thinking I'll put new coil, wires, plugs, fuel filter, timing belt, MAF, fuel line with press gauge.

Anyone have a scanner that would be willing to go for a ride?

Redlineracer12 · Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:23 am

I would agree with Brian that you should try diagnosing more before you just start replacing random parts (except the fuel filter because you haven't changed it recently).

KRYPTO · Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:38 am

yeah, I'm going to do the filter today.
Just need to find a scanner befor I repplace other parts. Thats just a list of what I should also do.

focinite · Wed Apr 16, 2008 11:13 am

i work till 8pm tonight. if you wanna swing by the coon rapids tires plus around 4pm i go on break ill scann it for ya and take a look see. most igniton problems happen down low in the rpms and most fuel issues tend go away in high rpm( a stubern injector, and soo on). i wonder if the vct isnt acting up. where was the last place you got fuel? what octane? have you used any fuel additives? try pulling the plugs and see if any plugs are outta gap. also with engine running you can hose down the ignitions system and look for leaks( you will see arcing and the engine will miss fire)