Hi,
Has anyone else had this problem:
The Allen head part of the tie rod end stripped out. How can I get the nut off?
Any solutions?
This happened on both sides. I even sprayed the nuts with WD-40 beforehand; and these components were taken a part only a year ago. So the rust build up shouldn't be that bad. There is still a little bit of the "allen head hex shape" left.
Tie rod end allen screw stripped
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- Posts: 334
- Joined: Sat Mar 15, 2008 2:31 pm
- Car: '07 Focus ST (supertight)
- Location: North St. Paul, MN
Take a pry bar or a long pipe and pry the tie rod into its hole. Its tapered so the harder you push it into the hole, the more it grips. If you have an impact gun, just zip it off, but if you are working with manually powered tools, maybe have someone put all their weight on the bar
Dave
Dave

FocusMech's method worked. I used the floor jack to put pressure on the tie rod end. The "+1" method wouldn't work.
Plus +1 MM is a big step and none of the standard (English) sizes are somewhere in between.
Now if I could only get the control arm off! I need some special Torx socket.
Plus +1 MM is a big step and none of the standard (English) sizes are somewhere in between.
Now if I could only get the control arm off! I need some special Torx socket.
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- Posts: 334
- Joined: Sat Mar 15, 2008 2:31 pm
- Car: '07 Focus ST (supertight)
- Location: North St. Paul, MN
what size torx do you need for the lower control arm? if you know the size and swing by tousley ford I would gladly lend you one of mine
Dave
Dave

- Steve@Tasca
- Midget
- Posts: 8928
- Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2005 1:26 pm
I think it's a T-55 on the pinch bolt.
My method of removing end links revolves around not reusing them. I just pop the link off it's ball stud and then use a visegrip to hold the ball stud while I take the nut off.
Of course the new style end links have a spot to put a wrench between the end link and the bar but it requires a relatively thin wrench to fit.
My method of removing end links revolves around not reusing them. I just pop the link off it's ball stud and then use a visegrip to hold the ball stud while I take the nut off.
Of course the new style end links have a spot to put a wrench between the end link and the bar but it requires a relatively thin wrench to fit.
Tasca Auto Group- Employee pricing on all parts.

http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocator/i ... eid=213668
1-800-598-1484 or spowell@tasca.com

http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocator/i ... eid=213668
1-800-598-1484 or spowell@tasca.com
- closetfordfan
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 7:58 pm
- Car: 1996 ram
- Location: lindstrom
If you are referring to my +1, I was saying, I agree fordmech. I apologize if my response was confusingdartfork wrote:FocusMech's method worked. I used the floor jack to put pressure on the tie rod end. The "+1" method wouldn't work.
Plus +1 MM is a big step and none of the standard (English) sizes are somewhere in between.
Now if I could only get the control arm off! I need some special Torx socket.
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- Borlatap
- Posts: 3559
- Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 11:08 am
- Car: 06 Wagon, 02 SVTF, 00 ZX3
- Location: Aitkin, MN
I got it!closetfordfan wrote:If you are referring to my +1, I was saying, I agree fordmech. I apologize if my response was confusingdartfork wrote:FocusMech's method worked. I used the floor jack to put pressure on the tie rod end. The "+1" method wouldn't work.
Plus +1 MM is a big step and none of the standard (English) sizes are somewhere in between.
Now if I could only get the control arm off! I need some special Torx socket.

00 ZX3 "RattleTrap"
06 Wagon Doggy mover
95 Chevy Silverado Tow rig for lawn mowers
02 SVTF ...........
06 Wagon Doggy mover
95 Chevy Silverado Tow rig for lawn mowers
02 SVTF ...........