Rear spring swap
I'm trying to swap the stock rear springs in my ZX3 for the stock SVT ones, but the spring compressors I have won't work. I tried to get the clamshell kind at Harbor Freight, but they're sold out and they don't have any at the warehouse. I tried using a jack to put pressure on the control arm and pulling the bolt, but the bolt is frozen in the bushing. Short of pulling the whole arm out and replacing the bolt and bushing, are there any tricks to get this done?
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i didnt need a spring compressor for the rear. I just put a jack under the seat and lowered it slowly until it 'popped' out (not violently)
but do that at your own risk.
but do that at your own risk.
I wear my sunglasses at night.
You're talking about pulling the bolt at the knuckle, though, right? That's the bolt I can't pull because it's frozen in the bushing.
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Stock springs might be different, but just undo the shock bolt, and have someone pull down on the hub/arm while you yank the spring out.
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Get an internal spring compressor, it'll work.
I've done it a couple times now, you might need a 2x4 to help pry down on the suspension to get that last little bit but it will work.
I've done it a couple times now, you might need a 2x4 to help pry down on the suspension to get that last little bit but it will work.
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this the best way. remove lower shock bolt( wd40 and some heat may be needed) then jack the car up by the center of the rear sub frame( use a 2x4 for a jack cushin) as the car goes up the spring will drop out.o2designs wrote:Stock springs might be different, but just undo the shock bolt, and have someone pull down on the hub/arm while you yank the spring out.


I know it's not going to be that simple. If it was, I'd already have both of them out since I swapped the shocks yesterday. I'll try prying, but there really isn't much more extension left in the rear suspension.focinite wrote: this the best way. remove lower shock bolt( wd40 and some heat may be needed) then jack the car up by the center of the rear sub frame( use a 2x4 for a jack cushin) as the car goes up the spring will drop out. 8)
Steve, are you talking the ones like these ones?
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Thats exactly what I used, They aren't the greatest things ever but they work.harold wrote:I know it's not going to be that simple. If it was, I'd already have both of them out since I swapped the shocks yesterday. I'll try prying, but there really isn't much more extension left in the rear suspension.focinite wrote: this the best way. remove lower shock bolt( wd40 and some heat may be needed) then jack the car up by the center of the rear sub frame( use a 2x4 for a jack cushin) as the car goes up the spring will drop out.
Steve, are you talking the ones like these ones?
You do need about a 10 inch spacer on the bolt below the bottom hooks or you'l hit the bottom of the car before the spring is compressed.
And yes, in a perfect world removing that lower bolt is the easiest way but I've never been brave enough to try it.
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Herold,
You're saying that the bolt in the lower control arm attached to the knuckle is frozen. I think this is super common. Both sides on my car we're in this state. I had to replace the lower control arms. Though if you want to leave well enough alone, I'd get one of the spring compressors that the Ford Manual suggests. 02 told me they have them at some store here in St. Paul. I thought he said Minnesota Hydraulic, but I don't think that is right.
You're saying that the bolt in the lower control arm attached to the knuckle is frozen. I think this is super common. Both sides on my car we're in this state. I had to replace the lower control arms. Though if you want to leave well enough alone, I'd get one of the spring compressors that the Ford Manual suggests. 02 told me they have them at some store here in St. Paul. I thought he said Minnesota Hydraulic, but I don't think that is right.
That's kind of what I was thinking. I kept looking at that type and thinking it wouldn't work without some type of spacer. I may just pick those up. My car looks a little funny with its ass in the air.FORDSVTPARTS wrote: You do need about a 10 inch spacer on the bolt below the bottom hooks or you'l hit the bottom of the car before the spring is compressed.
Well, at least that means I was still seeing things clearly after a full day in the garage. I can understand why you wouldn't want to try. I've got a 2 foot-long breaker bar I was using and every time I pulled on it I cringed a little. It took me a couple hours to cut the nut off the wife's car when I couldn't get the broken end of the shock bolt out and I don't really feel like doing that again.FORDSVTPARTS wrote: And yes, in a perfect world removing that lower bolt is the easiest way but I've never been brave enough to try it.
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man dont be scered!!!! just jack up th back of the car after removing the shock bolt(also the tire)you will have to get a pry bar to help the rear arm swing more and the spring will need to be removed but dont worry as there is very little tension on it. if you want you can run a chain around said bar and spring and use the sub frame as a fulcrum and yerk it out, it aint gonna kill ya, scare you,yes but maim or wound prolly not. 

