SVT Suspension "Clunk"

[oldoutboardjim]

When I go over minor bumps (are there any 'minor' bumps this time of year!?!), I hear a clunking sound that sounds like the suspension. I jacked the car up and checked all wheels for play (none), as well as visually looking at some stuff. Zip.
Next I pushed down on the various corners of the car, and find that the left front clunks going down and coming back up. Keep in mind that I can only push it down about an inch in the front (limitations of weighing 175 lbs).
Any ideas?

[Monkey-Gein]

let me push on it

[Steve@Tasca]

I'd almost say it's a blown strut if you can move it an inch by hand.

Othersise sway bar end links are super common and typically only make noise at low speeds (30ish and below) over small to moderate bumps.

Don't even bother trying to wiggle them to check for play, even bad ones won't wiggle due to the constant tension put on the by the sway bar.

[Stilz]

Push it... push it reeeeeeal good...

Ya, sounds like the seal might have blown on the strut.

[closetfordfan]

I don't think its a strut, because the spring should still provide more than enough pressure to keep most people from moving the strut up and down by hand. I'm thinking broken spring or strut mount.

[spots25]

i'd definitely say the sway bar end links

[Stilz]

I don't think its a strut, because the spring should still provide more than enough pressure to keep most people from moving the strut up and down by hand. I'm thinking broken spring or strut mount.

not entirely. the end link would make the "squeaking" and the "clunk" but it wouldn't cause the corner to be easy to puch down on. Go find a shop that will look at/diagnose for free, and they'll let you know.

[oldoutboardjim]

I'd almost say it's a blown strut if you can move it an inch by hand.

Othersise sway bar end links are super common and typically only make noise at low speeds (30ish and below) over small to moderate bumps.

Don't even bother trying to wiggle them to check for play, even bad ones won't wiggle due to the constant tension put on the by the sway bar.

I'm not sure that I moved it a whole inch. It's hard to calculate movement when you're pushing down like this.
So how do I verify either of these conditions?

[Monkey-Gein]

take it to a midas. tell them it's clunking. they'll check it for free, just say you got to get the money first... then don't go back

[focinite]

take it to a midas. tell them it's clunking. they'll check it for free, just say you got to get the money first... then don't go back

yeah...sooooo.... how the hell am i gonna feed my kid if this is the shit people are gonna pull? mr out board, if the clunk is rear bound and it only happens on bound and rebound.... have you messed with yer rear shocks at all?.... chanches are the mount on the inner side is not tight and allowing it to wobble around, a good trick is to get a adjustable wrench and put it on the flat spot on the threaded shaft and it will keep it from rotating, now tighten the 13 mil nut and retest. a broken spring will clang on statick turns. but its a good idear to change out the front and rear sway links at 100k so take the wheels off and just look in there, if its broke youll see it. ....wow my spelling sucks another thing, the front strut bearings can come dis logded if installed wrong, this will sound like a small mirco army has invaded yer fender.

[oldoutboardjim]

take it to a midas. tell them it's clunking. they'll check it for free, just say you got to get the money first... then don't go back

yeah...sooooo.... how the hell am i gonna feed my kid if this is the shit people are gonna pull? mr out board, if the clunk is rear bound and it only happens on bound and rebound.... have you messed with yer rear shocks at all? (I've never messed with the struts).... chanches are the mount on the inner side is not tight and allowing it to wobble around, a good trick is to get a adjustable wrench and put it on the flat spot on the threaded shaft and it will keep it from rotating, now tighten the 13 mil nut and retest. a broken spring will clang on statick turns. but its a good idear to change out the front and rear sway links at 100k (By the way, the car only has 68,000 miles on it, and has been babied.)so take the wheels off and just look in there, if its broke youll see it. ....wow my spelling sucks another thing, the front strut bearings can come dis logded if installed wrong, this will sound like a small mirco army has invaded yer fender.

[Steve@Tasca]

Without being able to check it out in person clunks are virtually impossible to diagnose.

I'm at work until 4:00 today (Saturday) if you feel like taking a drive, just as a warning though the front door is locked and we're driving out of the lot at 4:01.

[closetfordfan]

Without being able to check it out in person clunks are virtually impossible to diagnose.

I'm at work until 4:00 today (Saturday) if you feel like taking a drive, just as a warning though the front door is locked and we're driving out of the lot at 4:01.

Yep, what he said.

[oldoutboardjim]

Without being able to check it out in person clunks are virtually impossible to diagnose.
I'm at work until 4:00 today (Saturday) if you feel like taking a drive, just as a warning though the front door is locked and we're driving out of the lot at 4:01.

Well, I drove in to see Steve. He drove it, and confirmed others' suspicions that it is the sway bar end links. I purchased some of those from Steve, and will install them one day soon.
By the way, Steve seemed impressed by the performance of my SVTF. Who says you have to be young to go fast?

[Steve@Tasca]

Your SVT is certainly entertaining Jim

Now I'm sad again, no boost for me